Over
the years Jen and I have visited the Lakes several times. On this occasion – Tuesday
18- Saturday 22 July – we attempted to see places we hadn’t seen before. The
journey of 95 miles to our hotel took just under two and a half hours and it
was rain virtually all the way; almost torrential. We were being optimistic,
because the weather forecast predicted rain every day – not surprising, since
the District is very green and full of lake waters!
The
next day (Wednesday) there was no sign of the promised rain. So we drove into
Egremont, a pleasant market town complete with a war memorial statue, the
statue of a haematite worker and a number of art galleries and the ruins of a
twelfth century castle.
Haematite worker sculpture
We popped into the Lowes Court in a Grade II Listed
building and chatted to the two cheerful staff; up a splendid curved staircase
there was an exhibition showing the renovations of the house and the fifty
years of the gallery’s existence. We were directed to the Deja Brew for a
coffee and cake, a popular watering hole.
We
drove on to Ravenglass, a coastal village, but to all intents and purposes it
was closed, so we had to look elsewhere for lunch! (We would doubtless return
another day to ride on the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway…)
Not
far along the road we came to the entrance to Muncaster Castle, which has been
the home of the Pennington family for over 800 years. It was deeded to the
family on 1 December 1208 by King John, so maybe he was not all Bad. There are
three main attractions here: the gardens, the house itself and the hawk and owl
centre.
Unfortunately,
due to the continued risk of bird flu, the bird displays were cancelled.
Interesting to us, there was a Steppe Eagle called Amelia in its enclosure –
Jen having recently published a children’s book entitled Amelia and the Witch’s Cat illustrated by her niece Amelia!
Amelia the Steppe Eagle - and Jen
In 2021
a breeding unit was established here to breed various endangered species of
raptor – with the ultimate aim of returning their number to the wild.
The
Hub supplies a variety of grilled cheese sandwiches with names like The Italian
Job (sun-dried tomato, garlic chutney and cheese blend) and The Good, the Bad
and the Ugly (Brie, Stilton, caramelised onion and cheese blend) – very tasty,
and washed down with a Lakes Lager for me and a pot of tea for Jen. Cheerful
and helpful staff. From here we ventured into the gardens, where there are a
good number of intriguing wooden carved items.
Wooden statue
It
was a glorious sunny and hot day. Thousands of trees have been planted here
since the 1780s. There are over six miles of walks. Rhododendrons thrive here
in the acid soil. There’s a profusion of exotic plants and shrubs gathered from
around the world by family members in centuries past, interlaced with bright
green ferns. Scafell Pike, England’s highest mountain can be viewed from the
grounds.
After
touring the extensive gardens, we wandered around the house, first entering the
Great Hall: here Sir John Pennington entertained Henry VI in 1464 when the
defeated king sought sanctuary after the battle of Hexham in the Wars of the
Roses. At the time Sir John was an elderly man; he had fought with Henry V at
the Battle of Agincourt in 1415.
A
door from the Great Hall leads into the Library, a stunning octagonal room
created by John Pennington, First Lord of Muncaster in the 1780s. He was
instrumental in the campaign for the abolition of the slave trade and a friend
of Wilberforce.
Library of over 9,000 books
Then
there is the fine dining room with its embossed leather ‘wallpaper’ and its
immense table, cut from a single walnut tree and able to accommodate the
seating of up to thirty guests.
Next there is the drawing room – in effect, such rooms were ‘withdrawing rooms’
where ladies would gather after the meal, leaving their menfolk to their
cigars, brandy, port and Whitehaven rum! The walls are crammed with portraits –
many of family members over the centuries. The room was shortened in the 1860s
to provide a staircase at one end and, eventually, in 1885, a billiard room at
the other. The walls of the billiard room are covered with wood panelling; the
wood over the fireplace was bought in 1838 at the break-up of the Royal Naval
ship HMS Temeraire which fought
alongside Nelson’s flagship in the Battle of Trafalgar; the ship is immortalised
by JMW Turner in his painting of the vessel being towed by a steam tug to the
breakers yard.
The
red-carpeted staircase is enhanced by three bas-relief marble wall panels of
The Dancing Hours, sculpted by the neo-classical Antonio Canova.
Red staircase

The Dancing Hours
On
the landing hangs a full-length portrait of Thomas Skelton whose nickname was
Tom Fool, because he dressed up in a chequered motley coat in the Pennington
family colours of blue and gold. His motto was ‘all my living is in good strong
beer’ which can be vouchsafed by his protruding beer belly. He was wont to act
the fool on occasion and perhaps the term ‘tomfoolery’ originated through his
antics.
Some
of the bedrooms are said to be haunted, though not all.
We
covered 85 miles that day.
Typical view
Next
day (Thursday) there was still no promised rain. So we went through Crummock,
Buttermere (atrocious parking, so didn’t stay), Honister Pass, Borrowdale,
Keswick (too busy!), and Grasmere before finding on the road out the Kings
Head Inn where we enjoyed excellent sandwiches, coffee, wine and lager.
The Kings Head Inn
We then
stopped in Ambleside and used our parking disc while seeking out the sheepskin
shop we’d seen on a previous visit and bought a suitable pelt. Going via
Kirkstone Pass, we ended up at Ullswater, and were able to park for free, and
watched a school of kayakers paddle to the shore. We bought a ticket for the
steamer Lady Dorothy (re-launched in 2001) and toured Ullswater. Here, on 23 July 1955, Donald Campbell set the world water speed record when he piloted his jet-propelled hydroplane Bluebird K7, clocking up a speed of 202.32mph. Campbell went on to break more speed records. On 4 January 1967 he died while attempting to beat his own record on Coniston Water. Near the end of the cruise we witnessed – and heard! – two RAF jets fly over us on their regular training runs.
RAF training flight
A
mere 29 miles was covered this day.
Final
full day (Friday) we drove into Cockermouth. The last time we’d been here it
had been wet and miserable. This day it was warm and sunny. We had intended
visiting the Wordsworth House; unfortunately it is shut on Thursdays and
Fridays (should have checked!) Instead we took a leisurely stroll across a
bouncy bridge and along the Memorial Walk on the banks of River Derwent and saw
Jennings Brewery at the confluence of the Rivers Derwent and Cocker. There were
dozens of blackbirds. On the other side of the fast-flowing river we saw the
ruins of Cockermouth Castle; a portion of it is still inhabited. It was built
in 1134 and the Percy family of Northumberland owned it from the fifteenth to
the seventeenth centuries. The current owners, the Wyndham family took
possession in the eighteenth century.
Cockermouth Castle
Back
in the town we enjoyed scones and excellent coffee at the Moon and Sixpence
café; yes, it’s a reference to one of William Somerset Maugham’s books (1919).
There’s a pub called the Fletcher Christian – the notorious sailor and mutineer
was born in the village of Eaglesfield near Cockermouth. Here too we saw the
plaque showing the high-water mark of the 2009 flooding; it must have been
horrendous.
Jen showing the high-water mark of the flood
In
the afternoon we drove to Maryport. In 1748 Humphrey Senhouse II started to
develop a planned town north of the River Ellen between Castle Hill and the
Roman fort. He called the town Maryport after his wife Mary. The Senhouse
family had already been collecting Roman artefacts over the years, going back
to the 1500s. We therefore visited the Senhouse Roman Museum, which was created
in 1985; in effect it took over the Naval Reserve Training Battery buildings.
Among other things, it is the home of one of the largest collections of Roman
altars; all of them found there over the last 430 or so years.
A Roman style lookout
tower has been reconstructed, affording a view across the Solway Estuary. The
fort (which may have been called Alauna) and its surrounding community supplied
Hadrian’s Wall with trade-goods, news, food and wine. The most famous tribune
at Maryport was Marcus Maenius Agrippa (not to be confused with Marcus
Vipsanius Agrippa (died 12BC); Marcus Maenius was host to Hadrian (who was in
Britannia to instigate the building of the Wall in 122AD).
Reconstructed Roman lookout tower, Senhouse Museum
There
were two other known forts further north overlooking the Solway – Beckfoot and
Bowness.
The
following day (Saturday) we drove home to Blyth through rain for the entire
journey of 110 miles.
Thus
ended a pleasant break blessed with three days of surprisingly good weather,
despite the forecasts!